The entire atoll, 80 miles north of Caracas, is a Venezuelan national park. There is just one town, of 1,600 people, on one island, set amid some 850 square miles of lagoons, reefs and the most ridiculously gorgeous beaches either well-traveled American had ever seen. There are no cruise ships or large hotels in Los Roques — just nearly limitless stretches of lonely sand surrounded by water so dazzlingly clear that snorkelers may have to squint behind their masks.
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